I had come to Barrow to learn about ice and climate change from Eskimo elders and hunters and from scientists. For two weeks I’d been visiting northern Alaska coastal villages as a guest of the Coast ...

Whale bones form a monument to lost sailors in Utqiagvik, Alaska, overlooking the Arctic Ocean. (AP Photo/Laura Rauch) At 2:16 a.m., the sun finally dipped below the horizon, marking the first ...